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 The gently waving palm leaves high
overhead are throwing mottled shadows over the coral sand. In one patch of
shadow, a diminutive common ground dove is foraging amongst a small drift of
sun-blasted vegetation. It carefully selects, manipulates and then discards
several stalks. Finally, it finds the perfect one and suddenly takes off – as if
immediately inspired by its find - flying almost vertically into the top of a
coconut palm. It lands on the top of a large yellow coconut husk and then
disappears into the foliage to repair its nest.
A little way away, out
over the shallow waters of this Caribbean side of Frigate Bay, brown pelicans
spiral. Every few minutes, one will suddenly plummet into the water and catch
(or more rarely miss) one of the teaming colourful fish below. Above the shore,
on a lush tropical hillside, a small troop of green vervet monkeys hide away
from people (and the powerful tropical sun) and butterflies and equally
colourful birds flit between the trees and flowers.
We are in St Kitts.
This is the idyllic side of the Island: the leeward side of Frigate Bay. The
monkeys and pelicans are happily unaware (we believe) of the bitter battle
breaking out on the windy Atlantic side of the island but it is there that we
must now go.
In the Marriot hotel the forces of the pro- and anti-whaling
camps are gathering. For several days, the island’s population has been swelling
further as senior diplomats and their teams have been arriving for this final
chapter in the annual meeting. The main foyer of the meeting hotel is filled
with small gossiping groups of delegates. Some have not seen each other for a
year and there is much greeting (and no small amount of hugging) going on.
Increasing numbers of people around the hotel (including those around the pools
and on the beach) sport the blue badges of delegates. Suddenly there are also
droves of journalists here. (St Kitts seems more popular with them than the last
meeting venue – Ulsan in South Korea.)
70 nations (or so) are gathering.
Some are represented by ministers or even ex prime-ministers and distinguished
figures can be seen sweeping along the corridors of the hotel with small
processions of advisors and assistants trailing behind them. Around the hotel
behind closed doors various preparatory meetings of various constituencies are
occurring. The tension is building and many people look worried and anxious.
Even the diversion of the football (soccer) world cup game (interestingly
England versus the Caribbean nation of Trinidad and Tobago) cannot provide a
full diversion. Nor can the excellent snorkelling off the hotel (reef fish,
sting rays and even occasional turtles can be seen).
Non-governmental
organisations have started their work too and there are press briefings and
conferences occurring in various corners of the vast expanse of the Marriott.
One very famous organisation, Greenpeace, is making the news here as its boat,
the Arctic Sunrise, has been refused permission to enter the waters of St Kitts
and Nevis and instead is hove to off the next Island north, one of the
Netherlands Antilles chain. Island lawyers are reportedly arguing the
case.
No new nations have joined today as far as we know… but it is still
not clear who is here and who has voting rights. Rumours are rife: country A has
been unable to get visas to attend; country B will attend but may not vote;
country C has decided not to come at all… but no one knows the truth. Only when
the meeting begins will we know, and even then the situation may change over the
days that follow.
IWC meetings have actually been running here for
several weeks – we have had more than two weeks of scientific meetings and then
a week of technical ones and, finally, we now await the public show into which
they all feed…
Back across the other side of the island, it is still
peaceful and the ground dove is back on the ground in the shadow of the palm
leaves, quietly selecting nesting material.
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